Hawai'i is not the multicultural paradise some say it is

The islands still struggle with the legacy of colonialism and the divisions intentionally sown between ethnic groups.

Carolann Carl, a Pohnpeian storyteller, poses in the halls of Washington Middle School in Honolulu. When she was invited as a sixth grader to be in the school’s advanced learner’s program, a school administrator expressed disbelief that Carl was full Pohnpeian (Pohnpei is an island in Micronesia). “I can’t forget what my mother said,” says Carl: “‘I worked so hard for you to be accepted. When you do succeed, they can't accept that you’re Micronesian.’" Carl's family once discouraged her from wearing her urohs, the traditional Pohnpeian skirt, outside for fear of being targeted. “Urohs are depictions of wealth [and] status symbols,” says Carl. “Here, racism has demeaned and denigrated such beauty to a point where people think we wear them because we’re poor, we’re dirty, all of the negative things racism has come to equate with being Micronesian."
ByImani Altemus-Williams and Marie Eriel Hobro
Photographs byMarie Eriel Hobro
May 17, 2021
15 min read

To outsiders, Hawai‘i might seem like the epitome of a post-racial society. For decades, scholars, writers, and tourism boosters have portrayed the islands that way—as a “racial utopia” where Native Hawaiians and Asians live harmoniously alongside white people, with the largely non-white population serving as the antidote to racism.

After all, no racial group holds a majority on the islands, and nearly a quarter of the population reports having a multiracial background. Compare that to the United States as a whole, where only 3 percent of the population is multiracial and three-quarters is white. 

But Hawai‘i’s racial make-up does not stem from a desire to unify races. Instead, it comes from concerted Western efforts to eradicate Native Hawaiian culture and create division among sugar plantation workers. The reverberations are still felt among residents today, including by the people featured in these portraits. Photographed in spaces linked to discrimination against their respective cultures and in places where they find healing from those traumas, they are part of our ongoing project focused on dismantling the myth of Hawai‘i as a post-racial paradise. 

the Hawaii state capitol building
a man poses for a portrait outside of the Hawaii State Capitol building.
Leeroy IttuLeeroy Ittu, a former special needs teacher from Kosrae, sits in front of the Hawaiʻi State Capitol building in Honolulu. For Ittu, the capitol represents Hawaiʻi’s failure to protect and support Micronesians. “I am three times a Micronesian. I am Kosraean, Marshallese, and Gilbertese. I should be proud of my ancestors, but life is hard here,” he says. "It’s very hard for Micronesians to survive here. All I see here is discrimination [and] faded dreams... [People in Hawaiʻi] call us cockroaches and say horrible things about us. They blame us for everything.” He tried dyeing his hair to blend in better—and to avoid violence. “However we dress back home, we’re told not to dress like that here,” he says. “When you go to a job interview, you have to hide the fact that you’re Micronesian. My cousins told me not to tell them you’re Micronesian. ‘Tell them you’re something else. Say you’re from an island by Guam.’ But why should I lie about who I am? … I hope I will find peace here... We are humans too.”
a woman poses for a portrait in front of a Baobab tree in Hawaii
a woman holding a Baobab fruit
Akiemi GlennAkiemi Glenn identifies as Black and as a Coharie descendent (the Coharies are an Indian tribe in North Carolina). She's standing in front of a baobab tree in the African section of the Koko Crater Botanical Garden in Honolulu. As the founder and executive director of the Pōpolo Project, she works to redefine what it means to be Black in Hawai‘i. “I was really drawn to the collection of baobab trees that they have in the middle of the African plant section,” she says. The tree “lives all across the continent of Africa and is a plant that represents spiritual connection. In many different cultures, people connect with that tree as a food source, as a source of oil, but also as a spiritual representative of the connection between this world and the world of our ancestors and the living and the yet to live. I found it really striking that these trees found their way to Hawaiʻi.” To Glenn, learning about plants, languages, and heritage can be empowering tools for understanding oneself and the environment. “If you’re not Hawaiian, there are ways to shift your mindset by speaking your ancestral languages or speaking another language that’s not a colonizing language,” she says. “For myself, one of the tools that has been really valuable is learning more about my people, where I come from to help myself have a better context for who I am. Sometimes, that is manifested through things like plants and a lot of times it’s manifested through deepening my relationships with folks who share background with me and learning together.”
A taro plant
a father and his two daughters pose for a portrait at their home
Mykie Ozoa-Aglugub, Alan Ozoa, and Kenzie OzoaMykie Ozoa-Aglugub (left), Alan Ozoa, and Kenzie Ozoa volunteer at Kākoʻo ʻŌiwi, a farm in Kāneʻohe. The family, which has deep connections to the plantation era, primarily identifies as Filipino (Bontok Igorot) and Puerto Rican, but also has roots in China, Japan, and Spain. Mykie and Kenzie’s Puerto Rican great grandmother was trafficked and brought to Hawaiʻi at 12 years old as a picture bride. Alan Ozoa worked on the pineapple fields on Lānaʻi as a youth. “Working at the loʻi is antithetical to plantation agriculture and plantation culture,” says Mykie Ozoa-Aglugub. “There’s no hierarchy, no bosses, and the satisfaction in production and productivity is tied to community care, not false concepts created by capitalism. As a family, we’ve always lived at the foot of the Koʻolaus so it’s really special to work the land and be in a reciprocal relationship with the land in Koʻolaupoko.”

The racial conflict began when Captain James Cook and his men came ashore in the Hawaiian islands in 1778. An estimated 683,000 Native Hawaiians were living in a culturally rich, self-sustaining society and thriving in the ahupuaʻa system—a model for equitably distributing land, resources, and work. The Europeans brought diseases, Western ways of thinking, and labor-intensive sugar plantations, leading to a cascade of traumatic events—including a sharp decline in population, the 1893 illegal overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom, and what many consider to be an ongoing occupation. (Find out how white planters usurped Hawai‘i’s last queen.) 

When Native Hawaiians protested inhumane conditions, owners sought out other ethnic groups for cheap labor on the plantations. Beginning in the 19th century, contract laborers from China, Japan, Okinawa, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Korea, Cape Verde, and the Philippines were lured to the islands with the promise of a paradisiacal lifestyle. Instead, the work was inescapably grueling—especially under the Masters and Servants Act of 1850, which confined laborers to the plantations. “The [Hawaiian] monarchy tried to mitigate against the abuses through personal pressure on the plantation owners,” says cultural historian Adam Keawe Manalo-Camp, but King Kalākaua had been forced to sign the Bayonet Constitution, which greatly limited the monarchy’s power. 

Beyond using tactics to increase productivity and profit, plantation owners also made calculated efforts to minimize workers’ power and labor strikes. They segregated ethnic groups, paying them varying wages to incite tension and awarding those with a closer proximity to whiteness with higher pay and positions. Some planters even tried to revive Southern-style cotton plantations on Oʻahu. Laborers were whipped, stripped of their names, and only referred to by their “bango” identification tags. “Much like slave patrols in the South, police officers hunted plantation workers who tried to escape the islands and their indentured servitude, overstayed their contracts, or became unruly according to plantation standards,” says Michael Miranda, chair of the Filipino American National Historical Society, Kauaʻi Committee. Katsu Goto, a Japanese merchant and interpreter, was lynched in 1889 for overstaying his contract, establishing a business, and translating documents from English to Japanese for colleagues. “The cycle repeated: Workers come here, they're mistreated, they save enough to leave the plantation, and violence ensues,” Miranda adds.

a man poses in front of ʻIolani Palace, the former home of the Hawaiian Monarchy, in Honolulu Hawaii
the Hawaiian coat of arms
Adam Keawe Manalo-CampAdam Keawe Manalo-Camp, a cultural historian and activist of Native Hawaiian and Filipino descent, poses in front of the ʻIolani Palace, the former home of the Hawaiian monarchy in Honolulu. “To me, ʻIolani Palace represents the beginnings of a society that was rooted in Native Hawaiian traditions—yet progressive and modern—that we could’ve had versus what we actually have now,” he says. In 1887, the Bayonet Constitution stripped King Kalākaua and the Hawaiian monarchy of their power. In 1893, after Queen Liliʻiuokalani proposed a new constitution that would restore power to the monarchy, American sugar planters and the U.S. military overthrew the Hawaiian Kingdom. In 1895, an unsuccessful attempt by Hawaiian royalists to restore Queen Liliʻuokalani's power resulted in her being imprisoned in her former palace. Three years after the overthrow, “a law went into place banning the use of ‘Ōlelo Hawaiʻi [Hawaiian language] in the schools,” says Manalo-Camp. “Similar to Native American resident schools, the language was disenfranchised from the education system until 1986. My first language was Hawaiian. I was told not to speak or think in Hawaiian and put in an English as a Second Language Program (ESL). This was in the 1980s.” Many kūpuna, or elders, were punished for speaking in their native tongue, resulting in a severe loss of language until the Hawaiian Renaissance. “You cannot tell me that imposing a foreign identity, language, and religion on a people is not traumatic.”
The University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa's Varney Fountain
a woman stands in front of the University of Hawaii
Noelani Goodyear-KaʻōpuaNoelani Goodyear-Kaʻōpua, who is of Native Hawaiian, Chinese, and English descent, stands on the steps of Hawaiʻi Hall on the campus of the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa in Honolulu (UH). A professor at the university, she is also a co-founder of Hālau Kū Māna Public Charter School and an organizer, along with her husband, of La Hoihoi Ea, a celebration of Sovereignty Restoration Day. "This whole ahupuaʻa was historically planted in kalo [taro]. After the U.S. occupation began and UH was being built, the loʻi [field] here was destroyed,” she says. “Over 22 acres of land tended by Hawaiian and Chinese farmers [were] torn up to make way for a College of Agriculture and Mechanical Arts. The stones taken from the banks of those loʻi were piled into a huge mound, six feet high and stretching over an acre. This Indigenous agricultural infrastructure—over 5,000 cubic yards of stone—was removed to make way for the new college. White faculty were brought in from the East Coast to teach about settler forms of agriculture. Hawaiʻi Hall stands where those displaced pohaku [stones] were put.” Hawaiʻi Hall is located on Varney Circle, in the center of which is a fountain adorned with the tiki motif. (Tiki is the New Zealand and Polynesian term; kiʻi the Native Hawaiian.) Kiʻi represents gods, deities, and guardians but, despite its cultural significance, has been appropriated for American tiki bars. The university has long had an uncomfortable relationship with Hawaiʻi’s diverse residents, early on viewing the islands as a “racial laboratory” and even proposing a station for racial research in 1926. In more recent years, the institution has been criticized for funding the Thirty Meter Telescope on Mauna a Wākea and taking away various Asian and Pacific Islander language programs and classes. Last month, UH students hurled anti-Black sentiments against Morehouse College students.
people pose for a portrait in a cemetery in Hawaii
a gravesite in Hawaii
Shayna Lonoaea-Alexander and Jen JenkinsShayna Lonoaea-Alexander (left) with their partner, Jen Jenkins (right), stand at the gravesite of Joseph Kahahawai at Puea Cemetery in Kalihi. Kahahawai was one of five men falsely accused in 1931 of beating and raping Thalia Massie, a wealthy white woman married to a U.S. Navy lieutenant. Massie’s husband and mother, along with two other Navy men, abducted and murdered Kahahawai. Lonoaea-Alexander (Native Hawaiian, Samoan, Filipino, Black, Chinese, and white) and Jenkins (Black), both work in criminal justice reform and see this history as a point of solidarity between the Native Hawaiian and Black communities. “I will never forget learning about Joseph and diving deeper into what happened,” says Jenkins. “The mentality around the Massie Case [was that] Hawaiians are more likely to be criminals. That’s how it’s portrayed for Black people. George Floyd, Tamir Rice, and Trayvon Martin—these are just young boys and men who are being murdered. There are women and trans Black women who are being killed. It's almost like they're disposable or their lives don't matter, which is where we get Black Lives Matter from. [The parallels are] undeniable and they persist today in Hawaiʻi for Native Hawaiians. The truth is that we've been failed systemically and socially.”

FREE BONUS ISSUE

Still sociologists in the 1920s and 30s looked at Hawai‘i’s mix of races and ethnicities, and especially the intermarriage among them, and saw the ultimate racial laboratory, where they could conduct race-related studies. Romanzo Colfax Adams, a leading sociologist at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, promoted the notion that Hawai'i was a so-called melting pot. “After a time the terms now commonly used to designate the various groups according to the country of birth or ancestry will be forgotten,” he wrote  in 1925. “There will be no Portuguese, no Chinese, no Japanese — only American.”

Although modern scholars such as Jonathan Okamura ascribe early intermarriage rates to a sex imbalance among the populations rather than any special tolerance, politicians touted Hawai‘i as a society of “colonial progress” where Asians and Native Hawaiians could culturally assimilate and become “model minorities,” an argument that eventually led to Hawai‘i’s statehood (many Native Hawaiians and non-Hawaiian locals alike often refer to the islands as a “fake state” given the lawless process involved). The concept of a racial utopia was being weaponized to undermine Black struggles on the continent and demonize people of color on the islands for “disrupting racial harmony,” especially in the cases of Myles Fukunaga, who was hanged for murder in 1928, and Joseph Kahahawai, who was falsely accused of rape and murdered in 1931. Nevertheless, by the 1950s and 60s, the tourism industry was selling the “Aloha Spirit,” Native Hawaiian culture, and racial harmony as commodities that visitors could purchase with a plane ticket. 

a staircase at an elementary school in Hawaii
a woman poses for a portrait at her former elementary school where she was bullied as a child in Hawaii
Nadezna “Nadine” OrtegaNadezna Ortega, an Ilocano language instructor at the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa, poses for a portrait at Pauoa Elementary School, which she attended after moving to Hawaiʻi from the Philippines when she was 10. Her experience as an immigrant led her to a career in Filipino studies. “They would make fun of my accent,” she says. “I stopped speaking for most of that school year. I was scared to speak because if I spoke, they would make fun of me." Fellow students even pushed her down the stairs. "It caused me to internalize shame," she says. "The summer after sixth grade, I watched a lot of TV and tried really hard to change that accent. I was like, ‘How do I speak in a way that they would accept me? Why can’t they accept me as I am?’ I used to cry to my mom: ‘I don't want to go to school. I want to go back to the Philippines.’”
two girls post for a portrait near a mural that says "end racism" in Hawaii
a mural that says "end racism"
Nikkya Taliaferro and Desiree BurtonNikkya Taliaferro (left) and Desiree Burton pose in front of a mural in Honolulu reading "End Racism." Taliaferro and Burton help run Hawaiʻi for Black Lives, a teen advocacy group protesting against racial injustice. The first march they ever organized, which was in honor of George Floyd, attracted over 10,000 attendees. “The murder of Lindani Myeni [a Black man killed by Honolulu police in April] further exposes the systemic problems that are present within our police department and the extent to which we excuse violence,” says Taliaferro. “Our police are no longer serving their purpose to protect our community and we cannot continue to allow this danger to continue. Murder should not be an option regardless of the faults of individuals pursued by police and our police incorrectly handled the case of Mr. Myeni. It is time to accept the faults of not only our police department, but every other system in place within Hawaiʻi that further encourages damage to marginalized groups.”
statues highlighting Hawaiian cultural appropriation
a man poses for a portrait in the Waikīkī area of Honolulu
Kāleo TenKāleo Ten poses for a portrait in the Waikīkī area of Honolulu. For Ten, who identifies as Native Hawaiian, Black, and Japanese, Waikīkī represents the mass appropriation and destruction of his culture as a Native Hawaiian. “When I see Waikīkī, a swampland turned into a concrete jungle, I see destruction, oppression, discrimination,” he says. “I see colonization. You don’t see much representation of the Kānaka Maoli [Native Hawaiian] culture. None of those big hotels are owned by local people or Hawaiian people. You just see all the same luxury brands, all the same chain restaurants. Tourism is destruction of the ʻāina and the ʻāina as a Kanaka is everything. It’s who we are.” ʻĀina has various cultural meanings but is primarily used to describe land.

The ethnic hierarchies created during the plantation era still exist today. There continues to be persistent mistreatment of Native Hawaiian, Filipino, Samoan, Micronesian, Black, and Tongan communities, especially within the education, economic, and justice systems. Native Hawaiians have among the highest poverty rates on the islands and make up some 20 percent of Hawaiʻi’s houseless population. Samoans, Tongans, and Filipinos struggle with low per capita incomes, while more than half of Hawai‘i’s Marshallese population are impoverished. Black residents do slightly better financially but account for nearly a third of the state’s reports of race-related employment discrimination. Meanwhile, Japanese residents earn the highest per capita income at $32,129, followed by white residents at $31,621. Both groups dominate the racial make-up of Hawai‘i’s current government.

Samoans, Tongans, and Micronesians face discrimination similar to what Filipinos faced during the plantation era but Micronesians, the most recent immigrants, endure the brunt of it. “Most Micronesians in Hawaiʻi come from nations that have Compact of Free Association (COFA) agreements with the U.S., which allows us to work [here] in exchange for military control of our territories,” says Leeroy Ittu, a former special needs teacher from Kosrae. “Many locals wrongly accuse us of taking jobs away, yet we are also somehow lazy and on welfare. The truth is many of us work at low wage jobs because of discrimination and our political status.” 

a couple poses for a portrait at a family home in Hawaii
A breadfruit tree
Maosi Tuitele and Uesa TuiteleMaosi Tuitele (left) poses for a portrait with his wife, Uesa Tuitele, at his family’s home in Aiea. Tuitele is of Samoan and Portuguese descent but was adopted by a Marshallese family in his teens. “My great Aunt Tauamalo Su’a and her husband Filo initially moved to Hawaiʻi from Samoa and her home was the meeting point for all family who would come after,” Maosi says. “It is a place of history for my family—a place of comfort and a piece of Samoa where our cultural practices are still alive and our language still spoken. When my wife and I first arrived from Samoa, she remarked how it reminded her of home because of the way of life they lead.” Even though Maosi finds comfort in Pacific Islander communities, he has experienced racism elsewhere. “Anxiety at work has been a huge issue,” he says. “Our economy is shouldered on the backs of island people. We as Pacific islanders are forced to apologize for being alive because of the anxiety our stereotypes cause others. We sell our souls every day in this service industry for the good of no one. There is no true aloha in this business.”
Traditional tatatau tools
a man in his tattoo shop in Hawaii
Aisea ToetuuAisea Toetuu is a pioneer of traditional Tongan tatatau artistry and a co-founder of Soul Signature Tattoo in Honolulu as well as Kaliloa School, a Tongan arts and language school. For Toetuu, who is primarily of Tongan, Filipino, and Hawaiian descent, Soul Signature is a sanctuary where he finds healing from the traumas of racism and colonialism. “Designs, patterns, and symbols become a language of one’s culture,” he says. “Before pre-European or pre-Christian contact, tattoos were a form of written language that signified [where] a person came from. The marks of tattoos gave me pride and made me want to learn more about my heritage.” In 2010, Toetuu visited his homeland of Tonga to demonstrate the lost art of tatatau and had the opportunity to tattoo members of the royal family. Toetuu continues to tattoo Tongan men with the traditional Tongan tatatau that he revised and named TaVaka. “I believe [that] art is a language,” he says. “It creates symbols that are universal which people can relate to. Tattoo symbols connect us back to our Indigenous language.”
a woman sits on a bed in Hawaii's Plantation Village
decorations on the wall in Hawaii's Plantation Village
Deanna EspinasDeanna Espinas sits atop a bed at Hawaiʻi’s Plantation Village in Waipahu, which is furnished by donations from former plantation workers and their families. While Espinas, the president of the museum’s board, has no direct familial ties to the plantation era, she has a deep interest in the experiences of Filipino sugar plantation laborers (Sakadas) who came to Hawaiʻi. They were subjected to intense discrimination and paid the lowest wages at 77 cents a day. Filipino laborers began organizing strikes against the horrors of the plantation in the 1920s, which led to the Hanapēpē Massacre on Kauaʻi, where 16 Filipino men were killed by police officers while fighting for labor rights. “[They] worked under extremely difficult conditions but were determined to work hard and save money so they could go home to the Philippines,” says Espinas. “Unfortunately, because it was so difficult financially, very few of them got that opportunity.” As a child in the 1950s, she had several Ninongs, or godfathers, from the plantations that she'd see during family celebrations. “We were their family. What was sad is that they never got to have their own. A lot of them came [with a] dream of working in Hawaiʻi, but they died here without their family around them. Their struggles need to be our struggles, too.”

Hawai‘i isn’t immune to the racial inequities all too familiar in the continental United States. Black and Samoan mothers have the highest infant mortality rates. School curriculums often erase the histories of Native Hawaiians, other Pacific Islanders, and Asians. An enormous telescope is being planned for the sacred mountain of Mauna a Wākea.

Hawai‘i also has one of the highest rates of police killings per capita. In Oʻahu, Native Hawaiians and Pacific Islanders are subject to more than a third of the incidents of police use of force, even though they make up only 10 percent of the population. Just last month, the Honolulu Police Department killed two unarmed people of color: 16-year-old Iremamber Sykap, a Chuukese teenager nicknamed “Baby” as the youngest in his family, and 29-year-old Lindani Myeni, a Black family man originally from South Africa.

We are two non-Hawaiian women of color raised in Hawai‘i; these issues go beyond just being stories for us: They are our own lived experiences and the experiences of those we hold dear. The ethnic divisions erected by the planters more than a century ago are real but they can be overcome with resilience, education, and solidarity. We see hope in movements from the Hawaiian Renaissance in the 1970s to Protect Mauna Kea now, and organizations such the Pōpolo Project, We Are Oceania, and many others that reclaim their cultures through community-building. 

“Mau Piailug, the Micronesian master navigator who helped to resurrect Polynesian voyaging, reminded us to resist the imaginary political boundaries that separate us,” says Adam Keawe Manalo-Camp. Or, as the great Fannie Lou Hamer put it, “Nobody’s free until everybody’s free.” 

Writer Imani Altemus-Williams is of Black, Jewish and Choctaw ancestry, and is on the board of the Pōpolo Project. Photographer and writer Marie Eriel Hobro is of Filipino, Spanish, and Chinese ancestry. They both live in Honolulu. Please visit Hobro's website for updates and resources on their project.

Note: Special thanks to Adam Keawe Manalo-Camp and all of the participants for their invaluable contributions to this ongoing project.

Editor's Note: This article originally misstated Michael Miranda's title. He is the chair of the Filipino American National Historical Society, Kaua‘i Committee.

Go Further